By Dave Workman
Editor-in-Chief
One thing about having a sixgun—or one which shoots five, seven or eight rounds before reloading—is the fact that when you leave the pavement, or civilization entirely, it’s a smart move to have plenty of spare ammunition.
This is where a fully-loaded cartridge belt comes into play, and its value in the field cannot be overstated. Anyone who has seen my photos of various wheelguns in this space over the past many months knows of my fondness for well-supplied cartridge belts. Maybe it goes back to my days as a kid watching those Saturday morning heroes running around the countryside, shooting bad guys by the bushel, and always having lots of shiny cartridges in the belt loops. I confess. I’m a sucker for fully-loaded cartridge belts.
Funny how those guys never seemed to run dry. I don’t intend to, either!
Cartridge belts have always been my weakness, so when I went into the custom gunleather business, I always made sure to have some belt blanks around to provide cartridge belts for my clients. Naturally, I knocked out some prototypes and they have endured all kinds of extremes over the years.
At some point, somebody must have decided that 24 or 25 loops on a belt was “just right.” I dismissed such limited thinking by knocking out—as my standard fodder—cartridge belts with 30 or more loops. I’ve got one for the .357 Magnum cartridge which holds a staggering 42 rounds. You just never can tell when the coyotes might stage an uprising!
Things to remember:
- Treat your gunbelt at least once a year with neatsfoot oil or some lanolin-type rub to keep the leather supple. Cartridge loops have a knack for cracking if they are neglected for very long periods, especially in dry environments.
- Don’t soak your belt in water expecting the loops to shrink. They will stretch right back again, and stay that way.
- If you want to make sure you don’t lose any cartridges, make the cartridge loops at least 1 inch wide, top to bottom (see image above).
- To avoid having your cartridges wind up covered with gunk, during the off-season, remove all brass cartridges. It’s not necessary to remove nickel-plated cartridges, however, because they don’t automatically crud-up.
If you’re going to look like you mean business, or just be a show-off, anytime you leave for an extended hunting trip, make sure to fill your belt. I always also toss an extra box of cartridges into my bag if heading out “just in case.” For that purpose, I’ve stocked up on a lot of MTM plastic ammunition boxes, as they will outlast factory cardboard.
Somewhere around my workshop, I’ve got a sheet of paper with my “formula” for loops, matching the dimensions of each loop with the cartridge it must hold. Starting with the .38/.357, the loop requires an inch of leather stitched a half-inch apart. For larger calibers, one needs a larger circumference loop, stitched wider apart.
I’ve seen commercial cartridge belts cut to a standard width of 2 inches, but for my purposes, I go with 2 1/4 , 2 ½ or 2 ¾ inches. It’s a little heftier, but my holsters don’t slide around so much, and when cinched up properly, the belt stays put.
And, yes, I do have a soft spot for rough-out belts, like John Wayne wore in many of his films. They’re practical in many ways, especially because that rough surface does not slide around against one’s jeans.
A good wheelgun only requires spare ammunition to keep working, and the cartridge belt assures the handgunner he/she will have plenty of reloads, even if the zombies rise up and lay siege to one’s castle.
Check out the products from outfits such as El Paso Saddlery, Hunter Leather and Triple K.
