By Dave Workman
Editor-in-Chief
Having recently fired a lot of rounds through a stainless steel Ruger Redhawk, it eventually came time to clean it, and here’s where I get to remind people about the importance of firearms maintenance even when the gun is made from stainless steel, which way too many people apparently think doesn’t need cleaning.
That’s a big “OOPS!” waiting to happen.
Now, the Ruger Redhawk, or a Blackhawk, or a new Colt Python, Smith & Wesson 686, or any number of other wheelguns crafted from stainless steel are all beautiful specimens of sixgun technology. Owners of such hardware deserve to be proud of their possessions.
So, a recent shooting session left this big sixgun desperately needing a cleanup. I was shooting factory loads of different brand name, and some shot dirtier than others, which I attributed to probably different propellants used by the different ammunition companies.
Chambered in .44 Magnum, so it also digests .44 Specials, the Ruger Redhawk roars like a lion and is definitely not as gentle as a lamb in terms of recoil or downrange ballistics. This baby is a fire-snortin’, silence-shattering master blaster by any description. Ruger built this thing to last, and I suspect it will be around a lot longer than me or its current owner, my younger brother.
But to the situation at hand.
When I unholstered this brute for a range session, I noticed immediately the powder stains around the front of each chamber on the stainless cylinder. I’ve seen guns come from the factory that way, simply a result of the test firing of each gun before it leaves the factory.
I actually visited the Ruger factory in New Hampshire once many years ago and saw a lady seated at a bench in front of a portal into which she fired handguns. I suspect this was her very important task, to stay at that bench, making sure nothing goes wrong when a handgun reaches the end user. It was actually fascinating to watch, as I don’t believe one could find a better example of reflexive gun safety than this woman handling one gun after another, and test firing each.
Back to my sibling’s six shooter. Once I was finished at the range, I brought the Ruger home and soaked a cleaning patch with Hoppe’s Traditional Formula No. 9, which I’ve humbly suggested has an odor worthy of being used as an after-shave. Once you smell Hoppe’s, nothing is ever quite the same, eh?
I rubbed and dabbed the cylinder front, as well as the rear of the cylinder window around the firing pin hole and just let that solvent soak in for a couple of minutes.
After the appropriate time had elapsed, I gently—and I mean gently—scoured the solvent using the very finest steel wool I could find, in a circular motion. After a bit of scrubbing, the burn stains and powder residue seemed to fade away.
I quickly wiped the surface with a clean patch, also soaked in Hoppe’s, followed by a clean dry patch.
I’ve done this same exercise with a nickel-plated .38-caliber Smith & Wesson revolver and found it to effectively clear away any sign of residue, leaving that nickeled surface shining like a new coin. I am certain that particular wheelgun had not seen a good cleaning in some years, as it had been kept in a gun case, inside of a larger shooting bag by its owner.
Now, nobody is going to argue that the same degree of cleaning isn’t appropriate for blued revolvers, because that would be nonsense. All wheelguns get dirty, it’s sort of a law of nature, like little boys invariably play in the mud and puppies piddle in the corner when you’re not looking.
For those antsy about the use of fine steel wool, I suspect you might get near the same result using a dishwashing scrub pad, which is made from some synthetic and fashioned to—presumably—imitate the cleaning capabilities of the steel wool.
For you handloaders, consider this a subtle hint to experiment with different propellants to determine which burns cleanest. Personally, I’ve had decent luck using H110 and Accurate #9 for my magnum loads, while HP-38 and CFE Pistol seem to perform acceptably in my .38 Special wheelguns, as well as my .45 ACP pistols.
You are never going to escape the necessity to clean your smoke wagons, and that applies doubly to anyone shooting black powder percussion revolvers. Those must be cleaned almost religiously after each session, whether your gun is stainless or traditional blue, because black powder is corrosive.
A clean wheelgun with a well-lubricated cylinder and action is a joy to shoot. My sixguns always perform at the top of their game when they are clean and oiled. While some may consider powder residue stains to give a stainless revolver “character,” I personally think such residue suggests the owner may not be too careful about routine maintenance. I once knew a guy who bragged about never cleaning any of his guns.
Don’t be like that guy. Wheelguns can fail you at the worst possible moment. It’s your responsibility to prevent such an event as best as you can.
